A Journey I'll Never Forget

Front of the apartment building 

 Side view

 Tiny little austere bedroom

2nd bedroom.  Note the clothes "drying".  The infamous outfit  I wore three days!

On this day eleven years ago, I was newly arrived in Verona, Italy for a month long total immersion class. All my visions of experiencing an  exciting, dreamy and perhaps romantic time in Italy, a la "Under the Tuscan Sun" (or the later "Eat, Pray, Love") went quickly by the wayside when, upon arrival in Verona (after an extremely frustrating and definitely non-romantic layover in Paris), I discovered my suitcase did not make it to Italy with me.   I waited in vain all weekend for luggage to appear; all the while wearing the same pair of blue jean shorts,  a sweaty icky travel stained tee shirt and big old clunking sneakers (because, of course, everyone knows you wear your clunky shoes on the plane, you don't waste precious suitcase space on them!)  By the time I wrote this particular entry, I was in a near panic state; on my way to begin "school" looking like a slob with no clear idea how I'd ever be reunited with my luggage.  I'd arrived at my destination but wasn't so thrilled with the journey so far. Thus follows a classic example of God's sense of humor and a reminder of who, really, is in charge!

Mrs. B

18 August 2003, 7:30a -- My Apartment

My suitcase did not arrive.  I spent a fairly miserable, self-pity filled evening alone.  I was afraid to go out lest my suitcase chose to arrive at the moment I left.  Because I didn’t go out, it didn’t show up.  That’s the way things work.

No matter what today, I have to figure out what’s going on with this.  Because of the language barrier, I’m not 100% sure my landlady was telling me they’d deliver it or if she was telling me, “Sorry, too bad, figure it out yourself!”

I hope the people at the school will help me get this taken care of.  I don’t think I can manage one more day like this.

I’ll try to think positive but right now I’m starting to wonder if all of this was such a hot idea.  Time to leave and head over to school.

Random Thoughts Written on the Back of the “Lost Luggage” Instructions the Airline (Air Dolomiti) Gave Me

18 August 2003, 8:30a  -- Caffe al Teatro on Via Roma

·      I am sitting here an hour before I am due at school.   This is where I met Eva yesterday (the young lady who was kind enough to let me borrow her cell  phone to call the airline about my luggage).  I’m wearing the same stinky clothes.  This R&R Hall of Fame tee-shirt is getting a lot of mileage.  I am wearing my Tommy Hilfiger blue jean shorts, too. They are probably not appropriate for school, l but I have nothing else.  I refuse to wear my sweatpants and swelter to death.

·         Italians are a bit aloof.  I stand out like a sore thumb and they notice and look down at me.  Of course, they can’t know this isn’t how I intended to appear!

·         No one looks into windows as they walk past.  I’ve sat at my window for hours last night, watching.  Eyes straight ahead, no glancing up, down, left, right.

·         I can’t believe how noisy it is at my apartment at all hours.  Street noise.  Cars passing, people walking by talking, etc.  Except this morning it was quiet.  Funny.

·         It’s real humid here.  In addition to making me a sweaty, icky mess, it’s rendered my appetite to next to nothing.  If anything, with this situation and all the walking (Eva said I should rent a bike), I should manage to stay in good shape.

·         I used the carta telefonica this morning to call regarding my bag.  It worked, amazingly enough.  Too bad it hasn’t been so easy to get my bag returned to me.

·         It only took me 15 minutes (or less) to walk here.  Good to know.  Why take the bus (except to learn how, I guess)?

Later, 8:45p -- Caffe Colonial (near Ponte Nuovo)

Woo-hoo, my suitcase showed up this morning!  During the afternoon break, I ran back to my apartment and was able to change clothes!  Glorious!  Now I feel a bit more “at home” and able to relax.

And school was fine; but when they say “Total Immersion”, that is exactly what they mean!  The staff and teachers try not to speak any English.  Yikes!  I ended up (I think) in a very basic class.  I’ll know for sure domaini (tomorrow).

The good news is, everyone is very nice, including most of the other students.  The bad news is, I comprehend about ½ of what is being said.  Ok, more like ¼!

There was a 2 hour lecture this afternoon on the city of Verona, ancient cities in general, arenas, gladiators, etc.  The instructor, Andrea, (a man),  speaks very fast Italian, says “va bene” a lot and reminds me of Cesar (a friend from my TRW days). Luckily, he also throws in some English so you can somewhat follow what he’s saying.  He also gave a 2 hour walking tour of Verona which was good to get oriented.  I think I understand, basically, how to get a bus ticket and where they go; also, where to buy groceries (there may be a store closer to my apartment but I haven’t found it yet) and what the best wines in Verona are.  He also told us a lot about the Arena di Verona.  Maybe I will see if some of the other students would like to see an opera.

I left the tour when we got close to my place.  I said, “Parto, abito (I'm leaving , I live ) plus  (the word for “over there”, which I know can’t spell, sounds like “la jew”)

I went home and unpacked/got organized.  Now I’m out having dinner (pizza and a beer, I figure I deserve the beer).  I’m not too worried about drinking too much over here, it’s too hot to get drunk.

Yes, it’s steamy, steamy, steamy qua (here).  I’ve never sweated so much in my life.  I need to buy a fan for my room.

Tomorrow I have to buy a notebook.  They haven’t provided me one.  My notes are all over the place.

I hope now that school has begun, I will start doing things in the evening with other people.  I didn’t come here to hang out by myself.

I’ve made myself go to restaurants, etc., by myself and it’s ok, but, other than Eva, I’ve yet to see any other “single” women.

I would also like to find the gym, but we’ll see.  I need to get the Internet thing figured out soon, too.

And, I need to remember that I am here to learn and grow.  Who knows what direction this will take?

Italian Vacation 2003

A wonderful two weeks with pal Hisaka.

Make an on-line slide show at www.OneTrueMedia.com

Italia Verona 2003

Hard to believe this was seven years ago.

Photo and video editing at www.OneTrueMedia.com

Where I Was Six Years Ago Led Me To Where I Am Now

Mid-August (especially hot and steamy ones) will always call to mind my adventures in Italy six years ago. I know I've posted bits and pieces of this before (an accounting of my first few extremely frustrating days in Italy); yet, I post it again as a reminder to myself (and perhaps others) that your life can take off in a completely new direction if you simply turn away from the way you are heading and go somewhere else, instead.

Mrs. B

My Apartment; Verona, Italy
I made it to Verona…but my suitcase did not. Doesn’t this figure? I’m trying not to panic…yet, or freak out, because there is no phone in this room and the landlady does not speak any English. The airline is supposed to call her before they deliver it. Sigh. I need to go get a phone card and find a phone to use to check up on this. Talk about frustrating, but somehow, I’m really not surprised.
Despite this, I managed to get to the train station then to the apartment. It’s ok, but sort of loud. I’m really glad I brought ear plugs. I hope it’s a safe area because I’m on the first floor and it’s hot, no AC, so, windows have to be open. Oh well. I’m a bit out of sorts right now, mostly because my bag didn’t show up!

Later
I’m feeling a tad overwhelmed. No word on my suitcase and I still don’t know how to get to the school tomorrow! I’m tired of these clothes and I’ve really not done too much to get acclimated to this place. I was so exhausted, I slept until noon. Sigh.
Well, I’ll go out and see what I can find out. Maybe get a bus schedule, at least. If worse comes to worse, I can take a taxi tomorrow to school. Hopefully they will be able to help me. I sure hope I don’t have to buy six weeks worth of clothes, etc. I’ll try and be positive. I’m here to grow, after all; to learn something about myself.
There is a small child wailing away nearby. Guess what? It’s just as annoying here as it would be at home.
No use thinking of home, it just gets me sad.
Random Thoughts Written in Piazza delle Erbe; Verona, Italy
Day One
· It was beautiful flying over the Dolomites. They looked a lot like the Matterhorn at Disneyland, but a countless number of them. It was hard to tell the difference between the clouds and the mountains!
· It really sucks that my suitcase went missing. This threw me for a loop! This, and the fact Signora G. speaks no English! I got sort of sad and took a nap. I felt a bit better, but I still have a lot to figure out for Monday; one sort of stress traded for another, I guess.
· A light bulb went out in my room already! I have tons of questions. Tomorrow, I will try to call the airline regarding my suitcase (I bought a carta telefonica) and also find a TI to get a bus schedule and hopefully directions to Idea Verona (right now, I’m clueless).
· If the luggage situation isn’t resolved by Monday, hopefully Idea Verona can help. I also need to pay them for the room.
· Maybe my room will grow on me. I hope it’s safe.
· I’ll feel better when I have my things!
· I am sitting in Piazza delle Erbe. At least I am finding my way around. There are many, many people out for the stroll. I feel like I look like crap. Thank God I packed my shorts. Everyone else really looks great. I’m trying not to get paranoid that all these lovely, fashionable people are looking down their Romanesque noses at me. I want to shout, “I do clean up nicely!”
· This whole fiasco regarding my suitcase must be one of those adventures my “Gutsy Women” book referred to. I think that little suitcase has some bad Karma (remember Fort Wayne; when it didn’t show up to mom and dad’s for almost SEVEN days one Christmas vacation?)
· But, hey. Here I am. In Italy. I made it, at least! And, it’s as beautiful as I remembered. Verona is a nice place (bel posto).
· It’ll get better.
· Did I mention it’s troppo caldo? Sweltering comes to mind.
· I think once I know what the hell I am doing, I’ll really like it here.
· I’m trying to communicate with people, too. Faltering, but I’ve got to start.
· It’s probably not so hot that I’ve had 2 Campari & sodas. Well, e cosi! It’ll help me sleep, anyway.
· There’s a cool breeze now…yey!
Later

It’s amazing what becomes important when things go awry. Right now, all I care about is getting my suitcase.
I did venture out and found where the school is. At the very least, I will arrive there tomorrow morning (hopefully I’ll wake up as I don’t have the alarm clock) a bit stinky, perhaps, but I’ll get there.
I met a girl from Madrid, Eva, who is also here to study Italian. She is going to another school, though. She spoke good English and was very kind. She helped me to call the airport and I found out that my suitcase is in Verona now and is supposed to be delivered today. I don’t know when and I’m a bit concerned about how it’ll get inside this building.
I went upstairs to talk to the landlady, her name is Renata. I stayed up there about ½ hour or so. I met her husband Renzo, as well. They were both nice to me; offered me beer, some fruit and a cigarette. Unfortunately Renzo doesn’t speak English, either. I think I picked up from our halting attempts to communicate that we have to wait for the suitcase to be delivered, we can’t go to the airport to get it. I think they’re waiting around on my account. I feel badly about that and will have to remember this and get them a gift when I leave.
Even though I don’t know near enough in Italian, I’m glad I know what I do know. Thank God I learned the word for suitcase! I told them in 4 weeks I will know more Italian. Hopefully, we’ll be able to sit down one day and laugh together about this fiasco!
Eva gave me her cell phone number so I may call her too at some point. It sounds as if her apartment is much nicer; AC, a pool, etc. Well, I wanted to live like the locals and I think I’m experiencing this.
I found an Internet Café and also a place to maybe buy a cell phone. It might be worth the expense to get one.
I haven’t done any sightseeing or taken any pictures yet. I’m too out of sorts and I know I’ll have plenty of time to do this over the next four weeks.
So far I’ve learned several things. It pays to reach out to people, even if it’s difficult to communicate. Also, it’s a good idea to pack lightly enough to be able to not have to check baggage!
I’ve also learned I have a hell of a lot to learn. And, here no one cares where I come from, how much money I make, or what type of car I drive. I have to rely on my personality and the kindness of strangers!
I haven’t been eating much; too anxious. I have been drinking a lot of water and smoking way too much. Once I get my stuff, I’ll head to the store.
I’m not as homesick today, mostly because I’ve been too busy trying to figure out my next steps/plan of action. I know things will be different 4 weeks from now.
I’ve taken the tact of keeping a low profile. I look awful; no make-up, hair not done, etc. This way, I figure no one will pay any attention to me. Not that I’d grab attention, given all of the other beautiful women here.
It’s time to nap.
Later

My suitcase did not arrive. I spent a fairly miserable, self-pity filled evening alone. I was afraid to go out lest my suitcase chose to arrive at the moment I left. Because I didn’t go out, it didn’t show up. That’s the way things work.
No matter what today, I have to figure out what’s going on with this. Because of the language barrier, I’m not 100% sure my landlady was telling me they’d deliver it or if she was telling me, “Sorry, too bad, figure it out yourself!”
I hope the people at the school will help me get this taken care of. I don’t think I can manage one more day like this.
I’ll try to think positive but right now I’m starting to wonder if all of this was such a hot idea.
Random Thoughts Written at Caffe al Teatro on Via Roma; Verona, Italy
· Sitting here an hour before I am due at school. This is where I met Eva yesterday. I’m wearing the same stinky clothes. This R&R Hall of Fame tee-shirt is getting a lot of mileage. I am wearing my Tommy Hilfiger blue jean shorts, too. They are probably not appropriate for school,l but I have nothing else. I refuse to wear my sweatpants and swelter to death.
General Observations
· Italians are a bit aloof. I stand out like a sore thumb and they notice and look down at me. Of course, they can’t know this isn’t how I intended to appear!
· No one looks into windows as they walk past. I’ve sat at my window for hours last night, watching. Eyes straight ahead, no glancing up, down, left, right.
· I can’t believe how noisy it is at my apartment at all hours. Street noise. Cars passing, people walking by talking, etc. Except this morning it was quiet. Funny.
· It’s real humid here. In addition to making me a sweaty, icky mess, it’s rendered my appetite to next to nothing. If anything, with this situation and all the walking (Eva said I should rent a bike), I should manage to stay in good shape.
· I used the carta telefonica this morning to call regarding my bag. It worked, amazingly enough. Too bad it hasn’t been so easy to get my bag returned to me.
· It only took me 15 minutes (or less) to walk here. Good to know. Why take the bus (except to learn, I guess)?
Later

Woo-hoo, my suitcase showed up this morning! During the afternoon break, I ran back to my apartment and was able to change clothes! Glorious! Now I feel a bit more “at home” and able to relax.
And school was fine; but when they say “Total Immersion”, that is exactly what they mean! The staff and teachers try not to speak any English. Yikes! I ended up (I think) in a very basic class. I’ll know for sure domaini.
The good news is, everyone is very nice, including most of the other students. The bad news is, I comprehend about ½ of what is being said. Ok, more like ¼!
There was a 2 hour lecture this afternoon on the city of Verona, ancient cities in general, arenas, gladiators, etc. The instructor, Andrea, (a man), speaks very fast Italian, says “va bene” a lot and reminds me of Cesar. Luckily, he also throws in some English so you can somewhat follow what he’s saying. He also gave a 2 hour walking tour of Verona which was good to get oriented. I think I understand, basically, how to get a bus ticket and where they go; also, where to buy groceries (there may be a store closer to my apartment but I haven’t found it yet) and what the best wines in Verona are. He also told us a lot about the Arena di Verona. Maybe I will see if some of the other students would like to see an opera.
I left the tour when we got close to my place. I said, “Parto, abito (the word for “over there”, which I know can’t spell, sounds like “la jew”)
I went home and unpacked/got organized. Now I’m out having dinner (pizza and a beer, I figure I deserve the beer). I’m not too worried about drinking too much over here, it’s too hot to get drunk.
Yes, it’s steamy, steamy, steamy qua. I’ve never sweated so much in my life. I need to buy a fan for my room.
Tomorrow I have to buy a notebook. They haven’t provided me one. My notes are all over the place.
I hope now that school has begun, I will start doing things in the evening with other people. I didn’t come here to hang out by myself.
I’ve made myself go to restaurants, etc., by myself and it’s ok, but, other than Eva, I’ve yet to see any other “single” women.
I would also like to find the gym, but we’ll see. I need to get the Internet thing figured out soon, too.
And, I need to remember that I am here to learn and grow.

Who knows what direction this will take?

My Adventures In Italy: The Passing of Grandpa T

Grandpa T and me in happy times

I meant to post this earlier (but my current life is "getting in the way") to coincide with the five year anniversary of Grandpa T's passing. He died while I was in Italy (the last week I was in Verona). Following is my accounting and thoughts plus the poem I eventually managed to get written (a few days later while in Sienna) and sent off for his memorial service (which I missed being that I was on a plane en route/coming home to the States).

I was truly lucky to share a wonderful relationship with Grandpa T. I am thankful I was (I hope) able to make his life a bit better during those final years he lived in California.

Hey, Grandpa!

"Horseshit!"

Love ya and miss you.

Mrs. B

11 September 2003
A sad day for me; got word from Dad that Grandpa T died on Tuesday. Although it wasn’t unexpected, and, as is often the case when folks get very old (91), almost a relief, it still shook me up a bit. Memories came flooding back; especially of the times we spent together in 2000-2002 in Escondido playing cards, talking and going out to eat. I am very sorry that I can’t be there for his (and a belated one for Grandma T) memorial service on 9/28.

Today I felt very very far away from home. I wish I could be with my family.

I’d like very much to be able to send a poem or something to be read for me at the service since I can’t be there. I hope I can get something out. I really did love him and I’d like to be able to honor him, somehow. I need to think about what type of poem.

Death always brings about a hodge-podge of emotions. Sadness, concern for others, realization that, in the end, death will eventually come for even me; fear, and sometimes even some amusement as fond memories are remembered. I don’t have any bad emotions; no remorse, guilt, shame or anger; when I think about Grandpa T.

I am pretty sure that he was ready to go. I hope, wherever he is, he’s playing cards with Grandma, puffing away on his pipe with his eye half on the Reds game while anticipating the chocolate cake he’s going to get his fill of now.

Because of this news, all of my earlier problems don’t seem like such a huge deal now. Somehow I have faith everything will be ok.

I went to St. Anastasia this afternoon to think and to reflect. It was peaceful.

St. Anastasia. I walked by this church every day on my way to school; it seemed fitting to go into it when I needed some peace

Just One More Time

I knew that it was coming
The day when you’d be gone
I thought I was ready
To receive the news
But in this, of course,
I was wrong

I am far away in Italy
I’m mixed up and feeling strange
And as I wonder
If I told you good-bye
I keep hearing
This refrain…

Just one more time
To see you
To visit you again
Just one more time
To play Gin Rummy
Even though you always win

Just one more time
To drive you through
The town of Escondido
Just one more time
To your favorite restaurant
For a margarita and a shrimp burrito

Just one more time
To eat M&Ms
Out of your mushroom candy jar
Just one more time
To smell your pipe
The essence of who you are

Just one more time
To watch you devour
A big piece of chocolate cake
Just one more time
To hear you tell me
“You’re a good kid, when you’re awake!”

Just one more time
To walk behind you
To make sure that you don’t fall
Just one more time
To tell you I love you
Just one more time, that’s all

Dedicated to Carroll L. T
My Grandpa
And my friend

Amy C. H
16 September ‘03
Sienna, Italy

Me outside the hotel where I wrote the poem in Sienna, Italy

My Adventures In Italy: Labor Day 2003

Here's what I was doing 5 years ago on this day in Italy (well, I actually wrote about it the following day, but, close enough!) Now, obviously, nothing ever came from meeting "the other" Austrian (definitely nicer looking than Ernst; can't figure out what happened to my picture of Ernst) but it/he made for a nice diversion for a few days! Actually, we DID end up corresponding via email for a few months, but, like a lot of things, it just sort of petered out. Obviously, just as well!

Mrs. B

2 September 2003
It’s been a busy past few days.

Yesterday Luigi asked me to go with him and his two friends (Annabelle (English) and Nicholaus (Austrian)) to Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) after school (yes, school on Labor Day; the Italians do not celebrate US Holidays any more than the Brits celebrate the 4th of July!) Why not? We left around 5p; it took an hour ½ to get there; lots of traffic.

We didn’t do much; walked around the town (called San Sirmione; just one of the several towns around Lago di Garda which is a huge lake; we were at the southern point of it).

Lago di Garda

San Sirmione

Pretty flowers climb a building in San Sirmione

Ok, I have to say I really liked Luigi’s friend Nicholaus (not sure how his name is spelled, don’t even know his last name or much about him at all except he is single and Austrian).

I know I do this often; meet some guy and think “He’s the one!” Maybe I just want there to be “The One” here in Italy? In any case, I enjoyed talking to him, maybe there was a “connection”; not enough time! He’s now gone back to Austria. I could have gone to Venice with the three of them this afternoon but I felt I should stay at school. Now I am kicking myself. Life is too short and once again I let responsibility/duty guide me! I think he wanted me to go; he said as much last night and then again today (when I met him and Annabelle quite by chance outside of school after class).

Annabelle and Nicholaus

But, in addition to responsibility, I let insecurity get the best of me. “Oh, he was just being nice”.

So now he’s gone and here I sit still alone in Verona. But, I told him today I’d get his email from Luigi and write him. So, I will. Maybe I can tell by email if there was “something” there.

Hope springs eternal, in my heart, anyway.

Amy, Luigi and Annabelle eating dinner in San Sirmione; Nicholaus obviously took the picture as I've got on my best "flirt face"!

All else is ok. There is a new batch of students at school, all Americans. I don’t really want to be with them. I much prefer my international buddies!

Zelia (from Portugal) told me tonight she was worried I’d rather be with the Americans. She also told me I was different from other Americans. I think she meant much nicer.

Hisaka and I will talk Thursday regarding our travel plans once school is over. Now maybe Austria? Ha. Well, stranger things have happened, right?

My Adventures in Italy: Opera Night!

Today, August 22nd, is Mr. B's b-day! Happy b-day, sweetie! Many, many, many more!

A recent (and one I love) picture of my Mr. B

Tonight, we're headed to our favorite local restaurant, Magnolia Grill, to celebrate. Can't wait!

But, on this night five years ago, as Mr. B was here in NC turning the age he'd be when I met him 7 months later, I was headed off to an opera, "Carmen", at the Arena di Verona. Following is an account of that experience.

Mrs. B

22 August 2003, 8:45a – Caffe al Teatro
Here at one of my favorite spots. Not sure why, perhaps because it’s where I met Eva who was so kind to me. The cappuccino is more expensive here (no school discount) but I’ve found it a hassle to use the discount card.

I’m still lost half the time in class! Laura (the teacher I had for the first two weeks of class) is very good and nice; her methods of instruction fun/entertaining but I feel like a dope. I think now that it will take years and years and years of study to get this language down. I know the more I speak it, the better my confidence will be.

Had dinner alone at an osteria near to my flat. This is a place one of the teachers (fast talking Andrea) recommended. It was a quaint place; sort of reminded me of where Pam and I went the first night we were in Firenze. I didn’t get exactly what I wanted but only because I didn’t take my time and I was afraid of sounding like a dolt (this is a death knoll!)

Then I got caught in the rain! Yes, it poured! Note to self. Don’t forgo the umbrella when packing! Now I have to buy one here. It was a cool rain, lots of lightening. It made for a nice night of sleeping, much cooler in my room (I did find a fan at PAM (supermarket) but couldn’t figure out how much it was and not sure I need it now, maybe the worst of the heat is over).

Later – My Apartment
School was good today. Felt as if I started to “get it”. Am going to the opera tonight; “Carmen”, with Ernst and Irene. Now it’s time to nap as the opera goes until midnight at least…

This is the fun part (if only there were a romance to also look forward to; not the case with Ernst; nice Austrian guy, very friendly and loves opera but…not my type.

Later – After the Opera
The opera was WONDERFUL and the experience of seeing it in the Arena di Verona; built in 30 AD, with 15-20K other people; was something not to be missed! It was SO crowded, though; we were knee to knee in the nosebleed section; seats on “the stones”. Amazing to have my ass on same seat as Romans watching gladiator fights and screaming for blood!

There were actually horses on stage; and donkeys, too! No English subtitles here but, I’ve seen “Carmen” before so I knew what was going on.

Horses and donkeys on stage!

Italy’s President (what’s his name) was there watching it, too; therefore, tons of polizia. (Turns out he really wasn’t; not sure why since he was supposed to be there.)

Poor Ernst, he definitely had the wrong idea about me. He was overly friendly; kept hugging and kissing and touching me. Annoying, as I was there only to see an opera in the Arena di Verona. I thought at first perhaps Austrians are just very demonstrative, until he put his hand over mine…and left it there. I finally lied to him and told him I was married. Not just out like that; I asked him if he had kids, he said no, he wasn’t married. A few moments later he asked me if I was married and I said yes (well, I was married, once!)

That pretty much put an end to it. Just call me Ms. Manipulative! Hell, I didn’t want to ruin the evening by causing a scene or by having to shoot him down. This way, he can believe it was only because I was married that I wasn’t returning his attentions. A good ruse. I didn’t want my opera experience ruined by avoiding him/being annoyed all night.

We sat on the stones for 4 /2 hours! No way to leave to go to il bagno. So, I didn’t drink but ½ bottle of water…

But, it was worth it. And, Irene showed up, thank God (but then Ernst put the moves on HER, something I felt a bit badly about).

As I said, the arena was built in 30AD. They started doing operas 80 odd years ago, “Aida” was the first opera shown in the Arena di Verona. There are 3 sections to sit in; the settore (sections) which are like general admission at a baseball game but no assigned seats; these are the cheapie seats (about 25,50 euros). These are the seats we sat in (or, rather, "on", since these were "the stones"). Then there are seats that are assigned which I think run between 50-90 euros or so; finally the seats on the floor (like the best seats at a rock concert!) around 120-150 euros. Basically, the whole seating arrangement is like that of a rock concert.

The arena fills up

Because we were in the cheap, we had to wait in a long line outside the entrance to our settore (if we’d gotten there earlier, we would have had “better” seats; people line up around 6:00p (the opera started at 9:00p!) to get in, get to their settore and claim the best seats).

Lines outside the arena

Outside the arena, vendors were hawking copies of the lirica for "Carmen" and cushions to blow up and sit on (this should have given me a hint, no?)

More of the outside scene

Once inside the arena, you climb up a series of steep steps (this took awhile what with the throngs of people) and finally get out into the open air. There are ushers to tell you where to sit; you tell them how many, they point out where to go and attempt to squeeze in. Squeeze in is an apt term, I felt like a sardine. This was definitely the downside to the experience (for me, anyway); no room to move or stretch, hard stone seats and no ability to get up and leave for the entire duration. The view we had of the stage was excellent meaning it was directly avanti (ahead) of us but far away. So without binocolo da teatro, very difficult to see much detail (of course you’re really there for the music so no matter). As it turned out, Ernst had binocolo da teatro with him (along with a sleeping bag to sit on) so it could have been worse.

Our great view of the stage!

Just call me spoiled but, at least WRT seats, I am used to my orchestra seats at Opera Pacific!

Good Things
The production was wonderful. Music, of course, exhilarating. Costumes, scenes, props (live animals!); the voices, all excellent. Amazing how easy it was to hear, considering how far away we were.

The crowd. I was impressed that so many people were there. Italians are obviously cultured and it’s great the opera is affordable. Also, very well-behaved; quiet, no fracas. Amazing considering how close everyone was sitting. Vendors running around selling drinks, food. Poor guys, it looked like a difficult job hauling their boxes/ice chests stepping through the throngs of people sitting everywhere. “Coca, Fanta, Birra, Bibito!”

The crowd

Very interesting to see the tradition here and how different they are from opera back home. Definitely in place to entertain the crowds that were stuck in place during the LONG intermissions (20-40 minutes; three of them). No champagne for me, I got to watch the “Gong Lady”! She comes out during the intermissions 3 times and bangs a gong. The 1st time she comes out she bangs it once, the 2nd time twice, etc. The third gong means the opera is about to begin again. She makes a big show of it, running the baton outside the gong a few times before she smacks it (once ,or twice, or 3 times, depending). She’s a very popular lady by the time she comes out the 3rd time!) You also know when the act is about to end because you can see two groups of stage hands coming along each side of the stage with screens. When the act is over, they put the screens in front of the stage. From our vantage, we could see the stage hands working to change the set.

The very experience of seeing an opera in such an old historic place is something I will never forget.

Bad Things
Being pestered (and therefore distracted) by Ernst.

Not having much space.

Not being able to go to il bagno (I never had to go, TG, but it bugged me all the same).

Not being able to have anything to drink.

Feeling like a “poor person” (ok, this was really more my state of mind, no fault of the opera!)

The BORING 3rd Act of Carmen seemed even more endless than usual.

My Adventures In Italy: The First Day Of School

18 August 2003, 7:30a – My Apartment
My suitcase did not arrive. I spent a fairly miserable, self-pity filled evening alone. I was afraid to go out lest my suitcase chose to arrive at the moment I left. Because I didn’t go out, it didn’t show up. That’s the way things work.

No matter what today, I have to figure out what’s going on with my suitcase! Because of the language barrier, I’m not 100% sure my landlady was telling me they’d deliver it or if she was telling me, “Sorry, too bad, figure it out yourself!”

I hope the people at the school will help me get this taken care of. I don’t think I can manage one more day like this.

I’ll try to think positive but right now I’m starting to wonder if all of this was such a hot idea.

18 August 2003, 8:30a – Caffe al Teatro on Via Roma (right before my first day of class)

Via Roma

Random Thoughts and General Observations (Written on the Back of the “Lost Luggage” Instructions the Airline (Air Dolomiti) Gave Me):

I am sitting here an hour before I am due at school. This is where I met Eva yesterday. I’m wearing the same stinky clothes. This R&R Hall of Fame tee-shirt is getting a lot of mileage. I am wearing my Tommy Hilfiger blue jean shorts, too. They are probably not appropriate for school, l but I have nothing else. I refuse to wear my sweatpants and swelter to death.

Italians are a bit aloof. I stand out like a sore thumb and they notice and look down at me. Of course, they can’t know this isn’t how I intended to appear!

No one looks into windows as they walk past. I’ve sat at my window for hours last night, watching. Eyes straight ahead, no glancing up, down, left, right.

I can’t believe how noisy it is at my apartment at all hours. Street noise. Cars passing, people walking by talking, etc. Except this morning it was quiet. Funny.

It’s real humid here. In addition to making me a sweaty, icky mess, it’s rendered my appetite to next to nothing. If anything, with this situation and all the walking (Eva said I should rent a bike), I should manage to stay in good shape.

I used the "carta telefonica" (phone card) this morning to call the airline regarding my bag. It worked, amazingly enough. Too bad it hasn’t been so easy to get my bag returned to me.

It only took me 15 minutes (or less) to walk here. Good to know. Why take the bus (except to learn, I guess)?

Later, 8:45p -- Caffe Colonial (near Ponte Nuovo)
Woo-hoo, my suitcase showed up this morning! During the afternoon break, I ran back to my apartment and was able to change clothes! Glorious! Now I feel a bit more “at home” and able to relax.

And school was fine; but when they say “Total Immersion”, that is exactly what they mean! The staff and teachers try not to speak any English. Yikes! I ended up (I think) in a very basic class. I’ll know for sure tomorrow.

The street the school was on (right side)

The good news is, everyone is very nice, including most of the other students. The bad news is, I comprehend about ½ of what is being said. Ok, more like ¼!

Idea Verona (the school)

There was a 2 hour lecture this afternoon on the city of Verona, ancient cities in general, arenas, gladiators, etc. The instructor, Andrea, (a man), speaks very fast Italian, says “va bene” a lot and reminds me of my friend Cesar from Spain. Luckily, he also throws in some English, so you can somewhat follow what he’s saying. He also gave a 2 hour walking tour of Verona after school which was good to get oriented. I think I understand, basically, how to get a bus ticket and where they go; also, where to buy groceries (there may be a store closer to my apartment but I haven’t found it yet) and what the best wines in Verona are. He also told us a lot about the Arena di Verona. Maybe I will see if some of the other students would like to see an opera.

I left the tour when we got close to my place. I said, “Parto abito (and the word for “over there”, which I know I can’t spell, sounds like “la jew”). Basically, this meant, "I'm leaving as I live over there".

I went home and unpacked/got organized. Now I’m out having dinner (pizza and a beer, I figure I deserve the beer). I’m not too worried about drinking too much over here, it’s too hot to get drunk.

Yes, it’s steamy, steamy, steamy qua (here). I’ve never sweated so much in my life. I need to buy a fan for my room.

Tomorrow I have to buy a notebook. They haven’t provided me one. My notes are all over the place.

I hope now that school has begun, I will start doing things in the evening with other people. I didn’t come here to hang out by myself. I’ve made myself go to restaurants, etc., by myself and it’s ok, but, other than Eva, I’ve yet to see any other “single” women.

I would also like to find the gym, but we’ll see. I need to get the Internet thing figured but soon, too.

And, I need to remember that I am here to learn and grow. Who knows what direction this will take?

(Not-Yet) Mrs. B

My Adventures In Italy

Five years ago this afternoon, I departed on "my grand adventure" to Italy. Somehow, it seemed fitting to open up the travel journal that I kept during that time. It's a peek into not only the trip itself, but my inner journey. So, I figure from time to time over the next six weeks, I'll pop in an entry here and there into this Blog. It's certainly gonna be an interesting contrast of the before, then and now!

Mrs. B

15 August 2003 – On the Plane; Philadelphia, PA
I am sitting on the plane in Philly; believe it or not, there may be a problem with the plane (indicator problem) but, the captain just came on to say we’ll be on our way in 10 minutes. Sigh of relief; although, I guess it’d work out if I got delayed.

I’m on my way to Paris, then Verona. So far it’s been uneventful, although I am already thinking I have too much crap (even though I did get everything in one wheelie bag and one carry-on). Yes, I began to think this while lugging the carry- on through the airport here in Philly, my shoulder aching from its weight. I’m definitely going to ship some shit home after the class in Verona is over. No way am I lugging this over Italy for two weeks. See how much I’ve changed already!

The most traumatic thing today was saying good-bye to Nigel and Clyde. This will be the longest yet that we’ve been apart. I know they’ll be fine, but my heart still hurts a little. I’m happy that my heart is hurting for cats and not some guy. Yes, I really mean this!

I hope the people get friendlier during this journey of mine! So far, no one has been that outgoing. I think I have a “dud” for a seat mate; some big guy who won’t even look at me. He seems to have an attitude; or maybe he’s one of those that is scared shitless of flying but he doesn’t want to let on. Well, it’s a 7 hour flight; maybe he’ll say something at some point (He never did!)

I’m not sure yet how my writing will go. I do want to capture details of my trip so I can write up a memoir later. I’d like to write about my inner-journey, too. I think I’ll be in a different place emotionally six weeks from now. And, of course, I’d like to write poetry, stories, articles, etc.

When this trip is all said and done, I’d just like to be happier. That’s a broad statement; I’ll figure out more details as time goes on.

16 August 2003 – In the Airport; Paris, France
I’m not impressed with this place. I ran around for almost an hour just trying to figure out where I was supposed to be. This airport is full of escalators and moving sidewalks that seem to go everywhere but where you want to go. Some of the running around, admittedly, was my own damn fault. I got to the “Satellite” ok, but thought there wasn’t anyone there to check me in (at least I didn’t see anyone there). So, I tried to go down to where ticketing was. I could see it, but no escalator went down there! I asked several times and was told I had to take a “lift” down. So, along with a whole throng of people, I waited 10 minutes for the lift. Once down, I found the ticketing area with a huge long line of people checking in. I thought about standing there politely, waiting my turn to ask if I was supposed to even be standing there, but decided I didn’t have time to waste so I walked up to the counter and asked the agents if I had to wait in line. They said no (somewhat snottily, I might add; perhaps they didn’t appreciate my impatience, but, if you think about it, I DIDN’T have to wait in line so why should I wait in line to ask if I have to wait in line?) So, off I went (hauling my stupid black bag) back up to Satellite Six. Once there (and now there was a person in attendance), I was told I had to go back downstairs to check in! Luckily, some other lady that was working nearby seemed to know what was going on and said I could check in there. Also, next time (if indeed there is a next time that I’m in this inane airport), I need to say or refer to a “transfer” (the US equivalent of “connection”).

My French really sucks. I could hardly understand a word. I hope it’s easier in Italy!

Now I know why Karen Allen’s character got lost in this same airport in the movie “Until September”. She missed her plane and met up with a handsome, rich French dude. Me, it looks like I’ll make my flight to Verona where hopefully all will be well!

Later – On the Plane; Flying Somewhere Over France
This flight is actually ok. The Flight Attendant is very friendly; stowed my bag for me.

At 11:00a, it was “Happy Hours” time. She wheeled a little cart down the aisle with miniature sandwiches and cocktails. I opted for orange juice (which, by the way, was not orange, it was the color of Margot’s sangria!)

I think the carton said “Arrance Rossi” from Sicily. I’ll have to look this up later. In any case, it was “molto bene!” (arance rosse = red orange).

Later – My Apartment; Verona, Italy
I made it to Verona…but my suitcase did not. Doesn’t this figure? I’m trying not to panic…yet, or freak out, because there is no phone in this room and the landlady does not speak any English. The airline is supposed to call her before they deliver it. Sigh. I need to go get a phone card and find a phone to use to check up on this. Talk about frustrating, but somehow, I’m really not surprised.

The outside of my apartment building in Verona, Italy

Closer up

Side street; my windows were the first two on the lower floor in the lighter colored building in front

Despite this, I managed to get to the train station then to the apartment. It’s ok, but sort of loud. I’m really glad I brought ear plugs. I hope it’s a safe area because I’m on the first floor and it’s hot, no AC, so, windows have to be open. Oh well. I’m a bit out of sorts right now, mostly because my bag didn’t show up!

Lobby of the apartment building; my apartment was to the left of the elevator around the corner

My little bed in my little bedroom; note candle on night stand to make it "homey"!
The very small and bizarre bathroom

The "kitchen" (such as it was)

This was a 2nd bedroom, but, I used it to lay out and dry laundry (which I washed in the bathroom sink!)

My silly dancing hamster; he kept a smile on my face when I was homesick, though!